Stop Rust Permanently with POR15

Use the POR15 System to 

Stop Rust Permanently!

STEP 1 -  Degrease and Clean Surface	STEP 2 -  Neutralize Rust; Etch Metal
Clean metal surfaces with water-based Cleaner Degreaser. It is environmentally safe, removes dirt, grease, wax and other contaminants that interfere with restoration. Buy Now	Spray Metal Prep on the surface to remove rust or prepare it for POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating. Metal Prep neutralizes rust, etches metal for better adhesion, and coats it with zinc phosphate for permanent adhesion. Buy Now
STEP 3 -  Apply Rust Preventive Coating to Surface	STEP 4 - Topcoat the Surface
Apply a coat of POR15 Rust Preventive Coating. You'll get an unbelievably tough, hard, finish that won't crack, chip, or peel. It's so tough you can pound it with a hammer and not damage it! That's REAL protection! Buy Now	Finish your job with a POR-15 Top Coat or any other POR-15 coating that suits your needs. Most of them have no sensitivity to UV light. They are highly flexible, non-porous, extremely scratch and chip resistant, and strengthened by exposure to moisture. Buy Now

Don't Forget - POR Stands For Paint Over Rust

The secret lies in POR15's curing process. Most paints dry through evaporation, but POR15  dries faster when moisture is present. It has the opposite chemistry of ordinary paints. Now add to that POR15's incredible hardness, toughness, and flexibility, and you have a coating that is practically indestructible. POR15 is great for auto restoration. You can use it to to protect expensive and valuable equipment against rust, abrasion and even graffiti. POR-15 also has excellent "surface tolerance", which means it works very well on porous surfaces.

Winter Car Care | Part 1 - Before Winter Storage

If you are taking your vehicle off the road for winter there are a number of things to do before you lock the door and walk away. If you simply let your vehicle sit in the garage for six months, you may return to a dead battery, a damaged engine, ruined tires and a rat's nest under your bonnet or other problems from disuse.
Here's a list of important steps to take before you store a vehicle. Taking these precautions will not only ensure that your car starts when you return to it, but also ensure that its time in storage doesn't shorten the life of its components.
There are several tasks that need to be tackled now before the car is in position in its winter resting place, because once the car is out of sight it can also be out of mind and these jobs will be forgotten.

Part 1 - Before Winter Storage

1. This is the time to give your car a thorough wash and clean using a high-pressure hose  to remove accumulated road dirt from the underside. A steam clean under the bonnet wouldn't go amiss either and will aid inspection and repair of faults that you can attend to in the winter months. After this thorough cleaning, leave the car for a couple of days to allow all the water to drain away.

2. It's also a good idea to deal with any stone chips on the bodywork at this time before rust develops. The Langka chip repair kit makes this a little easier. Rust spots should be painted with Rust Cure.

             

3. Check all lamp assemblies for water or condensation on the inside. If in doubt remove lamp lenses (if possible) and dry out the interiors to prevent long-term condensation of bulb holders.

4. Now is the time to change the oil and filter - before you put your car away. Old oil containing acidic material can damage the engine. Use an oil drain extractor  to remove the old oil and replace with a quality oil such as Millers (all engine oils) and you may find a wrench strap handy for the filter removal.
5. Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel. Condensation in the tank is a problem in stored vehicles, and it is widely suggested that you fill the tank completely in order to avoid any empty space where water can accumulate and cause the tank to rot. However, the petrol can become "gummy" over time, so it is useful to add a fuel preservative (which should also be used for lawn mowers and other seasonal garden equipment).
An alternative course of action is leaving only a small amount of petrol in the tank, adding stabilizer to it, and upon return to your car -- add fresh petrol to mix with the older stuff. But this needs the addition of Tank Safe to reduce the possibility of corrosion in the fuel tank.

6. Drain and replenish the cooling system with the right proportion of water and anti-freeze to cope with the coldest days of winter. Check with our antifreeze tester. Good antifreeze contains anti corrosion additives and older cars should use Bluecol not orange OAT products.


7. You have the choice of putting your classic car up on blocks or to leave it standing on its road wheels. If it's simply winter storage it's probably easier to leave it resting on its wheels as this will enable you to roll the car out on to your drive-way give it an airing from time to time. If you choose this course it's important to overinflate each of the tyres a few pounds per square inch above their normal pressures (using mini air compressor or tyre inflator) to reduce the flat spot. Check with a tyre pressure gauge.

8. Use a grease gun to apply grease to all grease-points on steering, suspension and driveline.

9. Smear grease onto steel brake and fuel pipes to reduce corrosion.

10. Apply a fresh coat of underside anti-rust preservative like Dinitrol (S307 and others)
 

11. Drain fluid from the screen wash pipes and jets and empty the reservoir. This not only prevents frost damage, but also the forming of sediment in the fluid as it stands.

12. Wax/ Apply a good coating of Blitz wax polish to the bodywork, but don't polish it off (when you put the car back on the road another coat of wax and elbow grease will restore the shine).

13. Polish chrome-work and cover with either lacquer or a generous coating of wax or Vaseline.

14. Clean and vacuum (Wet or Dry Vacuum/ Interior Mini Vacuum Attachment Kit) the interior extensively, being especially vigilant about all food scraps and particles; these can attract small animals. Removing the carpets for heated indoor storage will prevent them from becoming musty

Part 2 - At its winter resting place (To Be Continued...)

Testing Time

( Grace P., 2012, The Royal Enfield, Issue 2)

- Running rich or feeling lean?

- We test a nifty gadget for checking carburetter settings 

Tingkering and fettling, they are lovely words aren't they? They imply a sense of competent non-threatening servicing, to be enjoyed with a mug of strong coffee and dulcet tones of Radio 4 serenading in the background, within a snug and purposeful shed

=================================

Hold that thought for a moment. It’s wonderful when your motorcycle is working perfectly and requires no major maintenance work. One’s leisure time can then be spent perfecting its running and keeping its cosmetics in shiny good order. Bliss. No rush to get that engine back together from an exploding big-end, or that clutch replaced before the annual club summer rally and ‘drinkathon’; instead, some quality fettling time, with little risk of failure and ridicule from your chums.

One such fettling task is adjusting the carburetter on the old faithful, a nice tweaking job if you have the right tools. 

Many people suggest using a ‘plug chops’ technique to set up the fuelling on old motorcycles. A technique that involves riding the motorcycle under load at four different speeds between idle and full throttle, then, killing the ignition abruptly and coasting – hopefully – quite elegantly to halt. Next, scalding your fingers by quickly pulling the hot spark plug and examining its burnt colour, and finally refitting a new clean spark plug for the next run. So that’s 4 runs with 4 different throttle openings and 4 new spark plugs, one for each run. Are you still with me?

Not an easy or safe task, and to be honest, not that useful these days with our unleaded petrol and all its additives.

Alternatively, for a relatively small sum of money it is possible to purchase a Colortune kit to actually look inside the combustion chamber, gasp, and thus see the actual colour of the combustion flame front. It becomes easy to understand and adjust the fuelling, noting the visual effect that adjustments have on the colour (and therefore fuel/air ratio) of the combustion.

I obtained my Colortune from www.frost.co.uk who also stock low cost adaptors, so it can be used on other vehicles too. The 14mm size is usually the most useful one. Before using the Colortune kit and making adjustments, firstly warm up the motorcycle so it can idle without using choke, and then remove the spark plug. As you can see from the example in the photo, this motorcycle seems to be set up fairly well anyway, with the plug electrode displaying a nice beige tone.

If the plug is dry and sooty then you may have a fault with excessive fuelling; if it is oily then it’s possible that engine wear may make adjustments difficult. 

 In place of the normal spark plug you screw in the special Colortune Transparent plug. It only needs to be just a fraction more than finger tight to take care not to over-tighten it! Next, screw the HT extension lead into the Colortune plug whilst the other end connects to the spark plug cap. The insulator on the Colortune plug is glass rather than ceramic – the area around the white centre – so you can look down into the centre of the plug and actually see the combustion taking place.

With the engine running just above idle speed you can clearly see and orange glow on the inside of the spark plug.

 Just a fraction of a turn anti-clockwise on the air-screw on the side of the Amal Concentric carburetter enables you to trim the colour of the combustion to the correct blue hue.

Too far and the colour will turn white, indicating and unwanted lean burn situation. 

 

You can use the Colortune to check the combustion at other engine speed too, rather than just at idle. The instructions that come with the kit describe what to expect at various throttle opening, to perhaps diagnose an incorrect main jet or slide, or even a defective accelerator pump on such equipped carburetters.

I tend to prefer using my experience and ‘feel’ to set these up, or if it’s a very complex problem by using a Dyno rolling road with an air/fuel ratio print out at a local specialist.

However, for most simple classic motorcycles the Colortune should be more than adequate. It’s especially useful when faced with twin carb equipped engines. Each air-screw can be set spot on using the Colortune, then, the idling balanced using an air gauge.

When you are finished, simply give the Colortune plug a clean with some brake cleaner using the small brush provided in the kit, then pack everything safely away for the next time it is needed. I use and old wooden wine box to ensure all the various parts are kept together.

“Look after your tools and they will last a lifetime” as my old dad used to say.

Using the Colortune kit is a rewarding yet simple bit of fettling, when carried out in the comfort of a well-ventilated shed.
Go on, treat yourself to another cuppa with the feeling of the job well done! 

Paul Grace

(Full Magazine is available at: http://www.magcloud.com/browse/issue/402366)

How to clean the soft top with Renovo products

Convertible Car Care Products

3 steps to make your soft-top like NEW with RENOVO  Renovo products are water based in order to be entirely kind to your soft-top (Souces: Renovo recommends)

		FABRIC SOFT TOPS		VINYL SOFT TOPS
STEP1: Clean your soft top		Ensure that your soft top is completely clean and free of any previous applications of water-proofer by applying Renovo Soft Top Canvas Cleaner (U213) according to the instructions on the bottle; then allow to thoroughly dry. As an approximate guide there will be two to four applications in a 500ml bottle; this will depend on how dirty the Soft Top is and how liberally the Soft Top Canvas Cleaner is applied.		Ensure that your soft top is completely clean and free of any previous applications of water-proofer by applying Renovo Vinyl Soft Top Cleaner (U211) according to the instructions on the label. The solution can be left to work for several hours or further applications may be used if the top is particularly dirty! As an approximate guide for an average size convertible top there are one to three coats in a 500ml bottle this will be dependant on the size of the Soft Top, how liberally the product is applied and how dirty the Soft Top is!
STEP 2: Revive the colour of your soft top		When the soft top is dry, apply Renovo Soft Top Reviver (U214/U215) according to the instructions on the label. Reviver should be applied out of direct sunlight. Colour depth will increase according to how many coats are applied. As an approximate guide for an average size convertible top there are two coats in a litre bottle and one coat in a 500ml bottle. It is important to allow each coat to dry completely before applying further Reviver.
STEP 3: Protect your soft top from the elements		When the convertible top is completely dry apply Renovo Ultra Proofer (U217/U218) according to the instructions on the label. Ultra Proofer should be applied out of direct sunlight. As an approximate guide for an average size convertible top there are two coats in a litre bottle and one coat in a 500ml bottle. It is important to allow each coat to dry completely before applying further Ultra Proofer. We recommend that you re-apply Ultra Proofer at approximately six monthly intervals to maintain optimum protection!		When the soft top is completely dry apply Renovo Vinyl Ultra Proofer (U212) according to the instructions on the label. Allow the Vinyl Ultra Proofer to dry completely before taking the car out in wet weather! As an approximate guide for an average size convertible top there will be one to three coats in a 500ml bottle; this will again be dependent on the size of the Soft Top and how liberally the product is applied. We recommend that you re-apply Vinyl Ultra Proofer at approximately three monthly intervals to maintain optimum protection!
STEP 4: Clean and polish your plastic screen		Apply Renovo Plastic Window Polish (U219) at regular intervals to restore and maintain the clarity of cloudy plastic screens. As an average guide there will be a few applications in a 50ml bottle and hence several more in the 100ml bottle; this will depend on how opaque the screen is and how liberally the Plastic Window Polish is applied.

 =============================================

Top Tips from Renovo:

Why Use TIG Welding ?

TIG welding (Tungsten Inert Gas), also called Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), gives you the ability to weld in any position. TIG welding is also ideal for very thin materials and aluminum. TIG welds have an exceptional appearance, and clean-up is easy since there's no slag, and virtually no spatter.

A new TIG Welder is available at Frost: the Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC Welder. Industrial TIG features at a DIY price

Learn more about TIG Welding Techniques with Ron Covell DVDs: TIG Welding Basics DVD and Advanced TIG Welding DVD are available.

Want to learn :
- what is Welding? click here...
- what is MIG Welding? click here...
- what is Plasma Cutting? click here...

What is MIG Welding?

Metal Inert Gas (MIG) welding, also sometimes called Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW) is a process that was developed in the 1940s for welding aluminium and other non-ferrous metals. MIG welding is an automatic or semi-automatic process in which a wire connected to a source of direct current acts as an electrode to join two pieces of metal as it is continuously passed through a welding gun. A flow of an inert gas, originally argon, is also passed through the welding gun at the same time as the wire electrode. This inert gas acts as a shield, keeping airborne contaminants away from the weld zone.

ADVANTAGES OF MIG WELDING:
- produces long, continuous welds much faster than traditional welding methods. Ideal for welding softer metals such as aluminium.
- capability to weld non-ferrous metals.
- produces a clean weld with very little splatter.
- can be used with a wide variety of metals and alloys.

DISADVANTAGES OF MIG WELDING:
- The equipment is quite complex. MIG welding requires a source of direct current, a constant source and flow of gas, as well as the continuously moving wire electrode.
- There is learning curve associated with MIG welding, even for experienced welders.
- The necessity for the inert gas shield means that MIG welding cannot be used in an open area where the wind would blow away the gas shield.

A new MIG Welder is available at Frost: the Eastwood MIG 175 Welder.
It is a professionnal quality welder at a DIY price : ONLY £399.00 including FREE Shipping, FREE Spool Gun and 3 year Warranty, click here for more information...

Want to learn :
- what is Welding? click here...
- what is TIG Welding? click here...
- what is MIG Welding? click here...
- what is Plasma Cutting? click here...

What is Plasma Cutting?

Plasma cutting utilizes a high-velocity jet of ionized gas (plasma) that conducts electricity from the torch of the plasma cutter to your workpiece. That directed plasma stream (about 30,000°F) heats the workpiece, converting the metal to molten slag. That high-velocity stream literally blows the molten metal away, leaving a clean, precise cut A new Plasma Cutter Welder is available at Frost: the Eastwood Versa Cut Plasma Cutter which easily slices through materials up to 3/8" thick! More information, click here...

Want to know exactly what is Welding, the different types of welding and the advantages of welding? click here...

What is Welding?

DEFINITION OF WELDING:
Welding is a process for joining similar metals. It basically joins metals by melting and fusing the metals being joined and the filler metal applied. Welding is a localized heat input and involves ferrous and non-ferrous based metals such as steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Welding covers a wide temperature range that can reach up to 1649ºC.

TYPE OF WELDINGS:
Gas welding, Arc welding (TIG Welding and MIG Welding), Resistance welding (Spot Welding), Solid state welding, Radiant energy welding, Thermo-chemical welding.

BENEFITS OF WELDING:
- Proper weld joints can be stronger or as strong as the base metals being joined.
- The welding joint boundaries more or less disappear at the weld
- A wide range of metals and its alloy or dissimilar metals can be joined by welding process.
- Welding joining of metals are performed in any position, so its no need any kind of special construction

APPLICATIONS OF WELDING:
A form of welding is used in a majority of items you use and depend on in your day to day life. It ranges from the car you drive to the chair you sit on in your home.

Want to learn :
- what is Welding? click here...
- what is TIG Welding? click here...
- what is MIG Welding? click here...
- what is Plasma Cutting? click here...

Improve the longevity of your classic engine

	Frost Ethomix prevents corrosion in the fuel system and internal engine components and neutralizes any acid formation. Essential for nearly all pre 1996 engines including mowers, chain saws, outboards, quads etc.
	Millers Oils VSPe Power Plus prevents pinking and running on and protects against valve seat recession. Now with ethanol protection.
	Save your engine with the ZDDP Anti Wear Oil Additive. ZDDPlus is an oil supplement that contains very high concentrations of the well-known additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphate), which has been the primary extreme pressure ingredient in all quality motor oils for over 70 years. However, beginning in the late 1980s, the concentration has been greatly reduced as newer oil classifications have come on the market. Add one bottle of ZDDP at each oil change to protect the gears, cam and followers and add life to your engine.
	Frost Stay Cool improves heat transfer, making a faster warm up and better cooling and contains a powerful anti corrosion agent, essential with engine metal mixes.

Learn How to Improve the Engine Longevity of your Vehicle

Precise carburation, perfect points gap and exact valve clearances mean nothing if they don’t synchronise at the optimum moment. Using a xenon timing light is easy and reliable and will pay dividends in engine longevity. A Xenon Timing Light can help you maintain the maximum benefit from your fuel.
Gunson’s Xenon Timing Light allows dynamic ignition timing with up to 60° of advance. The inductive HT pick-up is easy to fit. 12v with reverse polarity and overload protection.

See how the Xenon Timing Light can help you maintain the maximum benefit from your fuel, click here...

More about maintening your engine:
To see the 7 steps to clean your engine, click here...
3 essential tools to maintain and tune your classic engine, click here...
3 engine tools to Detect Engine Faults, click here...

3 Essentials Tools to Maintain and Tune your Classic Engine

Gunson Clikadjust Tappet Adjuster ensures valves open and close correctly resulting in better engine performance.

With Gunson Colortune, you can save petrol by adjusting correctly the fuel mixture at the Carburettor. A Motorcycle version is also available.

The Gunson Gastester Digital helps you to keep your classic in tune, save petrol, reduce harmful emissions and pass your M.O.T. test. An other essential Engine tool can improve your engine longetivity, click here for more info...

More about maintening your engine:
To see the 7 steps to clean your engine, click here...
3 essential tools to maintain and tune your classic engine, click here...
3 engine tools to Detect Engine Faults, click here...

Detect Engine Faults with Basic Tools!

You can maintain your classic car engine with basic tools! Regular engine checks and an annual servicing are a minimum.

Detect many engine faults with The Lo Gauge Vaccuum Tester including: spark misfires, leaking head gasket, incorrect mixture, when connected to the inlet manifold. It can also be used to check turbo boost, suction and delivery of fuel pumps and for multiple carburettor balancing. Use the lo gauge as a fuel economy meter when driving.

Diagnose faults in valves, pistons, piston rings, cylinder bores or head gaskets with the Hi-Gauge Compression Tester.

Detects exhaust gases in the cooling system with the Block Tester Kit.You can also test in seconds for: Cracked Blocks, Leaky Gaskets, Cracked Heads and Warped Heads. Works with both Petrol and Diesel vehicles.

More about maintening your engine:
See how the Xenon Timing Light can help you maintain the maximum benefit from your fuel, click here...

More about maintening your engine:
To see the 7 steps to clean your engine, click here...
3 essential tools to maintain and tune your classic engine, click here...
3 engine tools to Detect Engine Faults, click here...
To Learn How to Flush and refill your cooling system, >click here...

EXCLUSIVE AND LIMITED OFFER: Engine Tester Tools*
1- 10% OFF Lo Gauge, more information...
2- 10% OFF Hi-Gauge, more information...
3- 10% OFF Block Tester, more information...

* Prices valid till midnight 11/10/2011.

7 steps to Clean your Engine

1- Upon opening the bonnet, you want to remove any loose grime leaves and dead squirrels that are trapped in the grill or vents. Using a vacuum cleaner on blow does a good job, but compressed air with a Blow Gun, a leaf blower, or a wire brush will work just fine. For cleaning small vents and corners a Mini Vacuum Attachment Kit is useful.

2- Next, The engine should be warm but not so hot that you cannot lay your hand on it.

3- Now turn the engine off and block the air intake to prevent water from entering the engine. If the air filter has an opening, I will plug it with a rag or fit a plastic bag over the opening with a rubber band. You may have to follow the air duct to the front grill to find the opening. If you own a classic car with a distributor, you may want to cover it with a plastic bag or aluminium foil to keep it dry. Newer vehicles have sealed coil packs and ignition modules. Over time, seals can become brittle and crack. If your vehicle is five or more years old, consider covering coil packs and ignition modules with aluminium foil before cleaning.

4- Now spray the warm engine liberally with an alkaline-based cleaner. We like Chassis Clean. We do not like and do not recommend acid-based engine cleaners. Avoid getting engine cleaners on exterior paintwork. Let Chassis Clean soak on the engine for about 3 minutes, during this time, use the Parts Cleaning Brush to get into all the nooks and crannies.

5- Next rinse the engine thoroughly with a garden hose set for medium pressure.

6- Now go back and inspect for any remaining grease or grime spots that might require special attention. If you find any, spray the spot again with Frost Heavy Duty Citrus aerosol, scrub down with a Scuff Pad and rinse. The Frost Heavy Duty Citrus aerosol will remove stains, coatings or deposits of oil, grease and dirt. To remove remaining dirt and fuel stains from the carburettor use Frost Carb Clean Aerosol.

7- After the final rinse, blow the engine dry with a vacuum cleaner in reverse. If you do not have a dryer or compressed air, remove the rag or plastic bag covering the air intake and start the vehicle. Let it idle for 5 minutes.

More about maintening your engine:
Learn how to improve the longevity of your engine, click here...
3 essential tools to maintain and tune your classic engine, click here...
3 engine tools to Detect Engine Faults, click here...

Lead versus Lead-Free Body Solder

Body solder has long been the choice of custom and restoration shops for filling seams, leveling uneven body work and blending in custom features. Even the best polyester body fillers available today cannot match the superior adhesion, strength and overall durability that body solder provides. Both our lead type and lead-free body solders can be applied with a commonly available propane torch.

Body solder melts at a relatively low temperature and is pushed or spread into position with a hard wood paddle to get the basic contour. Further shaping is usually done with a coarse file. Often a skim coat of polyester body filler is applied over the solder for final shaping.

See the differences between Lead-based and Lead-Free Body Solder, click here...
See the similarities between Lead and Lead-Free Body Solder, click here...

Both body solders are applied in basically the same manner. The Lead-free has the advantage of being stronger, safer, and suitable for powder coating.

Make you own choice! Frost.co.uk sell Lead Body solder Kit and Lead-Free Body Soldering kit!

The Differences between Lead and Lead-free Body Solders

Traditional lead-based body solders have been the choice of restorers and custom vehicle builders for over 80 years. Lead solders are commercially available with tin concentrations between 5% and 70% by weight. The greater the tin concentration, the greater the solder’s tensile and shear strengths. Frost body solder kits use bars consisting of 30% tin and 70% lead, which give the widest spreadable temperature range.

This mix produces a solder that is easily applied to vertical and horizontal surfaces with a long spreadable working range. Tensile strength is 6140 psi which refers to the amount of force required to pull a substance apart (In this case if we have a soldered joint that covers exactly one square inch, it would take 6140 lbs to pull it apart). Body solders containing lead must be levelled by filing -- never sand lead-based body solder because sanding puts toxic lead dust in the air. Furthermore, grit from the sand paper may embed in the solder and cause corrosion.

The lead-based Solder is easier to use
The low melting temperature makes the 30/70 lead-based solder slightly easier to use than our lead-free solder.

Lead-Free Body Solder is suitable for powder coating
With a better Tensile Strength (greater than 9000 psi), the lead-free solder is more appropriate for building up door and other panel edges, and style lines. Levelling can be done by filing and sanding since no lead particles will be dispersed (Be sure to wear an appropriate dust mask as for any metal grinding operation). This is one of the few solders that can actually be powder coated and cured at 200°C (with accurate temperature control) without deforming. The fact that the lead free can withstand powder coating temperatures is a big benefit.

Different Paddle Uses
In the case of the lead-based solder the paddle is used like a knife spreading butter.
In the case of the lead-free solder the paddle is used to push the solder into the surface. The "spreading" technique is not recommended in the case of the lead-free because impurities may become trapped

See the similarities between Lead and Lead-free Body Solders, click here...
Lead-based versus Lead-Free Body Solders , click here...

The similarities between Lead-based and Lead-free Body Solder

Both lead-based and lead-free body solders:
- are applied similarly (both can be easily applied to vertical and horizontal surfaces).
- need to be applied to clean bare steel.
- require tinning. Our tinning supplies serve the dual function of chemically cleaning the surface while depositing a thin coating of (mostly tin) metal, which provides an ideal bond to the subsequently applied solder. After wiping away the surplus tinning material, the surface is reheated and solder applied. Once sufficient solder to level the surface has been applied, the area is reheated and the paddle is used to level the repair.

See the differences between Lead and Lead-free Body Solders, click here...

Rediscover the virtues of Lead Loading

Plastic body fillers have come a long way in recent years, but there are still jobs that are best done with a good old-fashioned dose of lead.

For some time, it looked as though lead loading was a dying art. Concerns over health and safety combined with a great leap forwards in plastic filler technology seemed to banish lead from mainstream bodyshops and confine its use to a few classic workshops who were keen to recreate the original production methods on their projects. But recently it has been enjoying something of a revival in the wider trade as its virtues have been rediscovered.

The 3 main benefits of lead loading

suitability for deeper fills

greater durability

remains malleable

meaning, lead loading is ideal for finishing joints such as at the tops of rear quarter panels on today’s thin metalwork, the extra time spent in the application paying dividends in the long run with a repair that won’t sink, crack or absorb moisture.

You'll need to practice
As well as being laborious to apply, lead loading is a skill that takes practice to master. For one thing, you are applying lots of heat and this can cause more damage through distortion if you get it wrong.

What tools do you need?
You may have access to an oxy-acetylene torch, but this is very fierce and the heat is very localised. It can be done if you keep the torch moving and this can be a quick way of lead loading, but it takes a lot of practice to master. A plumber’s blowtorch is better, not least because it gives a wider flame and this is what most people will use. Alternatively, if you have access to a powerful hot air gun this will be slow, but it is a great way of learning the craft. And if you are new to the leading game, then there is a sound argument that it is better to spend two hours putting on the lead and filling it flat than to spend 15 minutes applying the lead followed by three hours coping with panel distortion.

You can see the 12 steps for an invisible repair on the Frost website, click here... (Thanks to Simon Goldsworthy from the MG Enthusiast magazine for the article).

Before doing anything, make sure your panel can be soldered. Click here, for more info ...

If you want to give lead loading a try, you can find at Frost.co.uk a Basic Body Solder Kit for £38.40, and a more comprehensive kit: the Standard Body Solder Kit for £78.13. EXCLUSIVE OFFER: For 3 days only the Standard Body Solder Kit is at £70.00 ONLY. click here to buy your kit! Offer expires 24/09/2011.

Introduction to Body Soldering

Traditional lead-based body solder has been the choice of restorers and customizers for over 80 years for filling seams, leveling uneven body work and blending in custom features. Even the best polyester body fillers available today cannot match the superior adhesion, strength and overall durability that body solder provides.

Before doing anything, make sure your panel can be soldered. Click here, for more information ...

First clean the area to be filled, back to bare metal with a Stripping Disc, Abrasive Sandpaper etc.

Brush Solder Paste over an area slightly larger than that to be filled and heat the area gently until you see the solder paint “tin” the panel.

Remove excess solder paint with a clean cloth.

Next, melt blobs of body solder onto the panel over the area to be filled.

Prepare your Paddles by warming the surface of the Tallow and wiping your paddle in the molten puddle.

With a suitable amount of body solder now deposited on the panel, heat it carefully until it can be spread like butter with your paddle.

Control heat carefully and keep spreading until body solder is evenly spread over area.

Wash with cool water to quench and to remove traces of acid solder paint. Don’t grind or sand, use a Flexible File.

How to Determine If a Panel Can Be Soldered?

STEP 1: remove all coatings from the surface to bare clean steel

STEP 2: heat the area with a propane or MAPP gas torch

If the panel sinks as heat is applied, it should not be soldered. The way the panel reacts to heat indicates the stresses that were imbued into the metal when it was manufactured. Exposure to heat can actually produce stress fractures in some steels, so be sure to only use a sufficient amount of heat to melt the solder.

Avoid soldering perforated panels because the flux residue on the back of the metal will cause accelerated corrosion. This problem usually shows up as a swelling in the repair area a few months or years later as the forming rust underneath expands. For this same reason, seams that are only partially welded should not be soldered. Seams should be completely welded to prevent acidic flux residue from becoming trapped.