Showing posts with label rust prevention. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rust prevention. Show all posts

Friday, 31 July 2015

FAQs About Evapo-Rust - The Super Safe Rust Remover

A product of extensive research, Evapo-Rust rust remover is an environmentally safe water based product that has been proven to make even deep rust disappear in minutes, without any scrubbing.
It’s so easy to use, anyone can restore their rusted tools, auto parts, even firearms to like-new condition. One gallon de-rusts up to 300 pounds (136kg) of steel.
Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust RemoverEvapo-rust will not harm metals, rubber, plastic, PVC, most paints or un-rusted steel. In fact, immersing un-rusted objects in Evapo-Rust provides excellent long-term rust protection.
Best of all, Evapo-Rust is safe to use. It’s non-toxic, non-corrosive, non-flammable, and contains no acids, alkalis or petroleum solvents. Evapo-Rust is also biodegradable.

Rust Removal Has Never Been Easier!

  1. Pour into a container a sufficient amount of Evapo-Rust to completely cover the rusted object.
  2. Immerse the rusted object into the Evapo-Rust solution for 30 minutes (light rust) up to overnight (heavy rust).
  3. Rinse item with water. If deep rust remains in puts, re-immerse in Evapo-Rust.

FAQs EvapoRust

Q. How does Evapo-Rust work?
A. Evapo-Rust uses “selective chelation”, a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solutions. The active ingredient in Evapo-Rust bonds exclusively to the iron in ironoxide – not in steel.

Q. Do parts have to be completely clean before treatment?
A. No. Evapo-Rust contains detergents which can penetrate dirt and oil. However, surface contaminants do slow the process. The soils must be penetrated before EVAPO-RUST can come in contact with the rust underneath. Soil residue will also shorten the life of EVAPO-RUST. Heavy greases and cosmoline should be removed prior to de-rusting.

Q. Will Evapo-Rust remove bluing and other oxide finishes?
A. Yes, in about 30 minutes. Anodising will not be removed. Powder coating and paint will not be removed as long as the paints do not contain oxides.

Q. Can I clean brass, copper and aluminium with Evapo-Rust?
A. No, it will not clean (or damage) any of these metals. It will not harm plastic, clothing or glass either.

Q. I get a black film on some parts after using Evapo-Rust. What is it and how do I remove it?
A. The black is carbon from the steel. Generally high carbon steel is used in making items that are flexible (e.g. springs, saw blades) High carbon steel and tool alloy steel items when de-rusted will have a darker appearance. Much of the carbon can be removed simply by wiping with a cloth.
Evapo-Rust at Frost Auto

Q. Can I de-rust by spraying Evapo-Rust on the rusted area?
A. No. Evapo-Rust only works in liquid form, since the water in the solution will evaporate when sprayed. However, it can be sprayed on unrusted steel as a rust preventative.

Q. How can I use Evapo-Rust on a surface too large to soak?
A. Place a paper towel soaked in Evapo-Rust over the rusted area. Cover the paper towel with plastic wrap and tape the wrap down to prevent moisture from escaping. Remove in 24 hours and rinse with water.

Q. How long does Evapo-Rust last?
A. One gallon of Evapo-Rust will remove moderate rust from 300 pounds (136kg) of steel. If any of the bath evaporates, simply replace with fresh tap water.

Q. How do I know when the bath is spent?
A. The bath will turn completely black and will not remove rust.

Q. How do I dispose of the spent solution?
A. Pure Evapo-Rust can be safely poured into the city sewer. When the solution is spent, only the iron content will dictate the disposal method.

Q. How do I protect parts against rusting?
A. De-rusting with Evapo-Rust will provide 10-14 days of rust inhibition, depending on humidity. You can spray it on unrusted steel to prevent rust from forming on your tools, hardware and garden equipment. Its water-based, non-toxic formula inhibits rust from forming on all ferrous metals.

Thursday, 10 October 2013

Winter Car Care | Part 1 - Before Winter Storage


If you are taking your vehicle off the road for winter there are a number of things to do before you lock the door and walk away. If you simply let your vehicle sit in the garage for six months, you may return to a dead battery, a damaged engine, ruined tires and a rat's nest under your bonnet or other problems from disuse.
Here's a list of important steps to take before you store a vehicle. Taking these precautions will not only ensure that your car starts when you return to it, but also ensure that its time in storage doesn't shorten the life of its components.
There are several tasks that need to be tackled now before the car is in position in its winter resting place, because once the car is out of sight it can also be out of mind and these jobs will be forgotten.

Part 1 - Before Winter Storage

1. This is the time to give your car a thorough wash and clean using a high-pressure hose  to remove accumulated road dirt from the underside. A steam clean under the bonnet wouldn't go amiss either and will aid inspection and repair of faults that you can attend to in the winter months. After this thorough cleaning, leave the car for a couple of days to allow all the water to drain away.

2. It's also a good idea to deal with any stone chips on the bodywork at this time before rust develops. The Langka chip repair kit makes this a little easier. Rust spots should be painted with Rust Cure.

             
3. Check all lamp assemblies for water or condensation on the inside. If in doubt remove lamp lenses (if possible) and dry out the interiors to prevent long-term condensation of bulb holders.

4. Now is the time to change the oil and filter - before you put your car away. Old oil containing acidic material can damage the engine. Use an oil drain extractor  to remove the old oil and replace with a quality oil such as Millers (all engine oils) and you may find a wrench strap handy for the filter removal.
5. Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel. Condensation in the tank is a problem in stored vehicles, and it is widely suggested that you fill the tank completely in order to avoid any empty space where water can accumulate and cause the tank to rot. However, the petrol can become "gummy" over time, so it is useful to add a fuel preservative (which should also be used for lawn mowers and other seasonal garden equipment).
An alternative course of action is leaving only a small amount of petrol in the tank, adding stabilizer to it, and upon return to your car -- add fresh petrol to mix with the older stuff. But this needs the addition of Tank Safe to reduce the possibility of corrosion in the fuel tank.

6. Drain and replenish the cooling system with the right proportion of water and anti-freeze to cope with the coldest days of winter. Check with our antifreeze tester. Good antifreeze contains anti corrosion additives and older cars should use Bluecol not orange OAT products.


7. You have the choice of putting your classic car up on blocks or to leave it standing on its road wheels. If it's simply winter storage it's probably easier to leave it resting on its wheels as this will enable you to roll the car out on to your drive-way give it an airing from time to time. If you choose this course it's important to overinflate each of the tyres a few pounds per square inch above their normal pressures (using mini air compressor or tyre inflator) to reduce the flat spot. Check with a tyre pressure gauge.

8. Use a grease gun to apply grease to all grease-points on steering, suspension and driveline.

9. Smear grease onto steel brake and fuel pipes to reduce corrosion.

10. Apply a fresh coat of underside anti-rust preservative like Dinitrol (S307 and others)
 

11. Drain fluid from the screen wash pipes and jets and empty the reservoir. This not only prevents frost damage, but also the forming of sediment in the fluid as it stands.

12. Wax/ Apply a good coating of Blitz wax polish to the bodywork, but don't polish it off (when you put the car back on the road another coat of wax and elbow grease will restore the shine).

13. Polish chrome-work and cover with either lacquer or a generous coating of wax or Vaseline.

14. Clean and vacuum (Wet or Dry Vacuum/ Interior Mini Vacuum Attachment Kit) the interior extensively, being especially vigilant about all food scraps and particles; these can attract small animals. Removing the carpets for heated indoor storage will prevent them from becoming musty


Part 2 - At its winter resting place (To Be Continued...)

Monday, 27 June 2011

Dinitrol Rust Prevention Waxes and Oils

A large range of Dinitrol products are available to buy online at www.frost.co.uk. It might be difficult for you to know what Dinitrol solution you need; here is a bit of explanation...

Dinitrol Corrosion prevention products
DINITROL CAVITY WAXES (Solvent Based)
Dinitrol Cavity Waxes are a thixotropic rust prevention fluid with good film building properties for open surfaces as well as for cavities. They are capable of good penetration into crevices and joints, preventing further corrosion even on damp or dirty surfaces. Cavity waxes leave a brown, waxy water repellent protective film.

What are the KEY differences?
DINITROL Corromax 3125 - old metal, penetrates through rust, contains inhibitors
DINITROL 3654 - retreating existing applications
DINITROL ML - thin, high penetrating - low abrasion qualities

DINITROL UNDERBODY WAXES (Solvent Based)
Dinitrol Underbody Waxes are a thixotropic external underbody anti-rust fluid, which provides long term resistance against corrosion and abrasion, even under severe conditions. It provides a tough elastic waxy protective coating. The wax film is resistant to repair and oven paint temperatures.

What are the KEY differences?
DINITROL 4941 - black, tough, elastic and waxy film
DINITROL METALLIC - brown, tough, elastic and waxy film - does not harm rubber or plastics

DINITROL CLEAR WAXES (Solvent Based)
This is a long term engine protection product with heat resistance up to 200 centigrade. The product leaves a firm transparent film with short drying time and good adhesion and flexibility on all metal surfaces, rubber and plastic parts. It is resistant to alkali and acidic solutions. Ideal for using under the bonnet on hose clips and unpainted aluminium, which can corrode leaving a white powder.

DINITROL CORROHEAT 4010 - dries to a hard clear finish

DINITROL STONE CHIP PROTECTION (Solvent Based)
Dinitrol Stone Chip Black Protection is a permanently elastic anti-stone chip product which also protects against corrosion. It has a sound deadening effect and can be over-painted. It does not contain aggressive solvents such as chlorinated hydrocarbons and will not attack PVC coatings. Ideal for wheel arches.

Tuesday, 7 April 2009

POR 15 or Rust Bullet?

I have been looking at a hand-full of forums over the past few weeks. I couldn't help but notice the amount of people talking about rust preventive paint, and which one is the best.
Most discussions were about Por 15 against Rust Bullet. Some people were saying they preferred Rust Bullet, but the paint of choice seemed to be Por 15.
We at Frost couldn't help but agree in this case, due to the amount of positive customer feedback we get, claiming Por 15 is the Best!
Many of our customers have commented on the durability of POR 15, saying that it is "nigh impossible to chip the coating even when it is really hit with a hammer"!
Click here to have a look at a test involving POR 15 and Rust Bullet.
If you don't believe me, why don't you try it for yourself. Click here to have a look at POR 15.
Have your say, and please comment below, letting us know your thoughts.

Friday, 6 February 2009

POR 15 Rust Preventative Paint

POR-15 Rust Preventative Paint 2 sizes (US pint and US gallon), 4 colours (black, clear, grey and silver)
Whilst any paint will provide some degree of protection from rust for a while, no other is as permanent as POR-15. When others have chipped, scratched, flaked, and peeled, POR-15 will still be preventing rust. Available in black, silver, gray or clear, US pint or quart POR-15 can be sprayed or brushed on to provide a rock hard, yet flexible, non-porous coating that will not shrink, peel, or crack. It is totally resistant to road salt, petrol, battery acid, etc., and actually dries harder in humid damp conditions. Ideal for suspension and chassis protection, and you can apply a topcoat of any finishing paint. This is protection you can count on.

Smooth surfaces should be treated first with POR-15 Metal Ready. Use POR-15 Solvent to thin and clean brushes.

FEATURES:
- Can be sprayed or brushed,
- prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture,
- designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces,
- dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel (dries faster in humid conditions),
- totally resistant to most acid, petrol and road salt,
- UV light sensitive (must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight).

POR-15 applications:
AUTOMOTIVE: suspension, chassis, doors, trunk areas, engine & fuel tanks, rusty frames, floor pans,corroded battery tray.
INDUSTRIAL: heavy equipment, truck components, trailers,fuel storage, rebar, steel forms, concrete, storm grates, transformers, waste water management
MARINE: decks, bilges, hulls, stem pipes, chain lockers, mast. HOME: seal cracks in basement and foundations, Garage floors, Roofs, HVAC, Pipes, Beams, Home appliances.
Excellent for sealing and repairing fibreglass.