Wednesday, 7 December 2011

Get industrial TIG Welder features at a DIY price !

tig welder
A new TIG Welder is available at Frost: the Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC Welder which has industrial TIG features at a DIY price (ONLY £500 including Postage and Packing)!

: - Operates on either 110vAC, 15-amp circuit or 220vAC, 30-amp circuit
- 6mm thick welding capacity (1/4")
- High-frequency start for precise arc control
- Square-wave inverter for accurate aluminium welding
- Duty cycle: 45% at 150 amps
- "WP-17"-type torch accepts common cups and collets, up to 2.6mm electrodes (1/8").

See the Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC Welder in action:

What is TIG Welding?

Why Use TIG Welding ?

TIG welding (Tungsten Inert Gas), also called Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), gives you the ability to weld in any position. TIG welding is also ideal for very thin materials and aluminum. TIG welds have an exceptional appearance, and clean-up is easy since there's no slag, and virtually no spatter.
tig welder

A new TIG Welder is available at Frost: the Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC Welder. Industrial TIG features at a DIY price

Learn more about TIG Welding Techniques with Ron Covell DVDs: TIG Welding Basics DVD and Advanced TIG Welding DVD are available.

Want to learn :
- what is Welding? click here...
- what is MIG Welding? click here...
- what is Plasma Cutting? click here...

Thursday, 24 November 2011

New Eastwood MIG 175 Welder available to buy in the UK

A new MIG Welder is available at Frost: the Eastwood MIG 175 Welder . Here is a professionnal quality welder at a DIY price : ONLY £399.00 including FREE Shipping, FREE Spool Gun and 3 year Warranty.

Features of the Eastwood MIG 175 Welder:
- Welds mild and stainless steel, 24-gauge to 8mm (5/16")
- Welds aluminium, 14-gauge to 6mm (1/4")
- Includes FREE Spool Gun (for welding 19-gauge to 1/4" aluminum plate)
- Welder has a 30% duty cycle at 135 amps, and 30-175-amp welding range
- Feeds wire at 58"-471" per minute
- Has infinitely adjustable wire speed and heat settings
- Powered by 220v, 20 amp supply

See the product in action:

More information on the Frost website...

What is MIG Welding?

What is MIG Welding?

Metal Inert Gas (MIG) welding, also sometimes called Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW) is a process that was developed in the 1940s for welding aluminium and other non-ferrous metals. MIG welding is an automatic or semi-automatic process in which a wire connected to a source of direct current acts as an electrode to join two pieces of metal as it is continuously passed through a welding gun. A flow of an inert gas, originally argon, is also passed through the welding gun at the same time as the wire electrode. This inert gas acts as a shield, keeping airborne contaminants away from the weld zone.

- produces long, continuous welds much faster than traditional welding methods. Ideal for welding softer metals such as aluminium.
- capability to weld non-ferrous metals.
- produces a clean weld with very little splatter.
- can be used with a wide variety of metals and alloys.

- The equipment is quite complex. MIG welding requires a source of direct current, a constant source and flow of gas, as well as the continuously moving wire electrode.
- There is learning curve associated with MIG welding, even for experienced welders.
- The necessity for the inert gas shield means that MIG welding cannot be used in an open area where the wind would blow away the gas shield.

A new MIG Welder is available at Frost: the Eastwood MIG 175 Welder.
It is a professionnal quality welder at a DIY price : ONLY £399.00 including FREE Shipping, FREE Spool Gun and 3 year Warranty, click here for more information...

Want to learn :
- what is Welding? click here...
- what is TIG Welding? click here...
- what is MIG Welding? click here...
- what is Plasma Cutting? click here...

Tuesday, 22 November 2011

The Eastwood Plasma Cutter is now Available at

A new Plasma Cutter Welder is available at Frost: the Eastwood Versa Cut Plasma Cutter. It is priced for the DIY or PRO looking to do fast and precise cuts: ONLY £449.00 with 3 year warranty and Free Shipping!

Features of the Eastwood Plasma Cutter:
- Cuts through steel, stainless or aluminium metal up to 3/8" thick
- Makes precise curved and intricate cuts fast and easy
- 20 foot torch cable
- Built in pressure regulator
- Lightweight - under 15 kilos
- 110v or 220v with Inverter technology

See the product in action:

More information on the Frost website...

What is Plasma Cutting ?

What is Plasma Cutting?

Plasma cutting utilizes a high-velocity jet of ionized gas (plasma) that conducts electricity from the torch of the plasma cutter to your workpiece. That directed plasma stream (about 30,000°F) heats the workpiece, converting the metal to molten slag. That high-velocity stream literally blows the molten metal away, leaving a clean, precise cut A new Plasma Cutter Welder is available at Frost: the Eastwood Versa Cut Plasma Cutter which easily slices through materials up to 3/8" thick! More information, click here...

Want to know exactly what is Welding, the different types of welding and the advantages of welding? click here...

Monday, 21 November 2011

What is Welding?

Welding is a process for joining similar metals. It basically joins metals by melting and fusing the metals being joined and the filler metal applied. Welding is a localized heat input and involves ferrous and non-ferrous based metals such as steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Welding covers a wide temperature range that can reach up to 1649ÂșC.

Gas welding, Arc welding (TIG Welding and MIG Welding), Resistance welding (Spot Welding), Solid state welding, Radiant energy welding, Thermo-chemical welding.

- Proper weld joints can be stronger or as strong as the base metals being joined.
- The welding joint boundaries more or less disappear at the weld
- A wide range of metals and its alloy or dissimilar metals can be joined by welding process.
- Welding joining of metals are performed in any position, so its no need any kind of special construction

A form of welding is used in a majority of items you use and depend on in your day to day life. It ranges from the car you drive to the chair you sit on in your home.

Want to learn :
- what is Welding? click here...
- what is TIG Welding? click here...
- what is MIG Welding? click here...
- what is Plasma Cutting? click here...

Wednesday, 16 November 2011

Motoring Gifts Would make Great Xmas Gifts !

You still have no idea for Xmas for your husband, friend or colleagues ? A motoring gift would make a great and unique Christmas present. In addition, they are at very good price: from only £9.70 ! Hurry, we only have limited stock of each gifts! Have a look to the Frost Motoring gift now, click here...

Tuesday, 25 October 2011

Monday, 24 October 2011

Essential Tool for fender collision repair, fender flaring or fender clearance

With a Fender Roller, you can increase tyre to wing clearance, flare arches or repair wheel arch collision damage. The wheel arch fender bolts directly to the hub flange, with elongated holes in the adapter plate. With a little heat it is possible to fold the inner lip flat without damaging the paint.

1. Used for fender collision repair, fender flaring or fender clearance
2. Roller works on fender from inside wheel well
3. Attached hitch pin allows for wide or narrow angle
4. Fit most cars and light trucks with 4 or 5 lugs
5. Adjustable arm has second telescoping arm with roller that allows for 180 degrees wheel swivel.

See the Frost wheel arch roller on the Frost website...

Tuesday, 11 October 2011

Improve the longevity of your classic engine

Frost Ethomix prevents corrosion in the fuel system and internal engine components and neutralizes any acid formation. Essential for nearly all pre 1996 engines including mowers, chain saws, outboards, quads etc.

Millers Oils VSPe Power Plus prevents pinking and running on and protects against valve seat recession. Now with ethanol protection.

Save your engine with the ZDDP Anti Wear Oil Additive.
ZDDPlus is an oil supplement that contains very high concentrations of the well-known additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphate), which has been the primary extreme pressure ingredient in all quality motor oils for over 70 years. However, beginning in the late 1980s, the concentration has been greatly reduced as newer oil classifications have come on the market. Add one bottle of ZDDP at each oil change to protect the gears, cam and followers and add life to your engine.

Frost Stay Cool improves heat transfer, making a faster warm up and better cooling and contains a powerful anti corrosion agent, essential with engine metal mixes.

Monday, 10 October 2011

Learn How to Improve the Engine Longevity of your Vehicle

Precise carburation, perfect points gap and exact valve clearances mean nothing if they don’t synchronise at the optimum moment. Using a xenon timing light is easy and reliable and will pay dividends in engine longevity. A Xenon Timing Light can help you maintain the maximum benefit from your fuel.
Gunson’s Xenon Timing Light allows dynamic ignition timing with up to 60° of advance. The inductive HT pick-up is easy to fit. 12v with reverse polarity and overload protection.

See how the Xenon Timing Light can help you maintain the maximum benefit from your fuel, click here...

More about maintening your engine:
To see the 7 steps to clean your engine, click here...
3 essential tools to maintain and tune your classic engine, click here...
3 engine tools to Detect Engine Faults, click here...

3 Essentials Tools to Maintain and Tune your Classic Engine

Gunson Clikadjust Tappet Adjuster ensures valves open and close correctly resulting in better engine performance.

With Gunson Colortune, you can save petrol by adjusting correctly the fuel mixture at the Carburettor. A Motorcycle version is also available.

The Gunson Gastester Digital helps you to keep your classic in tune, save petrol, reduce harmful emissions and pass your M.O.T. test. An other essential Engine tool can improve your engine longetivity, click here for more info...

More about maintening your engine:
To see the 7 steps to clean your engine, click here...
3 essential tools to maintain and tune your classic engine, click here...
3 engine tools to Detect Engine Faults, click here...

Wednesday, 5 October 2011

Detect Engine Faults with Basic Tools!

You can maintain your classic car engine with basic tools! Regular engine checks and an annual servicing are a minimum.

Detect many engine faults with The Lo Gauge Vaccuum Tester including: spark misfires, leaking head gasket, incorrect mixture, when connected to the inlet manifold. It can also be used to check turbo boost, suction and delivery of fuel pumps and for multiple carburettor balancing. Use the lo gauge as a fuel economy meter when driving.

Diagnose faults in valves, pistons, piston rings, cylinder bores or head gaskets with the Hi-Gauge Compression Tester.

Detects exhaust gases in the cooling system with the Block Tester Kit.You can also test in seconds for: Cracked Blocks, Leaky Gaskets, Cracked Heads and Warped Heads. Works with both Petrol and Diesel vehicles.

More about maintening your engine:
See how the Xenon Timing Light can help you maintain the maximum benefit from your fuel, click here...

More about maintening your engine:
To see the 7 steps to clean your engine, click here...
3 essential tools to maintain and tune your classic engine, click here...
3 engine tools to Detect Engine Faults, click here...
To Learn How to Flush and refill your cooling system, >click here...

1- 10% OFF Lo Gauge, more information...
2- 10% OFF Hi-Gauge, more information...
3- 10% OFF Block Tester, more information...

* Prices valid till midnight 11/10/2011.

Tuesday, 4 October 2011

7 steps to Clean your Engine

1- Upon opening the bonnet, you want to remove any loose grime leaves and dead squirrels that are trapped in the grill or vents. Using a vacuum cleaner on blow does a good job, but compressed air with a Blow Gun, a leaf blower, or a wire brush will work just fine. For cleaning small vents and corners a Mini Vacuum Attachment Kit is useful.

2- Next, The engine should be warm but not so hot that you cannot lay your hand on it.

3- Now turn the engine off and block the air intake to prevent water from entering the engine. If the air filter has an opening, I will plug it with a rag or fit a plastic bag over the opening with a rubber band. You may have to follow the air duct to the front grill to find the opening. If you own a classic car with a distributor, you may want to cover it with a plastic bag or aluminium foil to keep it dry. Newer vehicles have sealed coil packs and ignition modules. Over time, seals can become brittle and crack. If your vehicle is five or more years old, consider covering coil packs and ignition modules with aluminium foil before cleaning.

4- Now spray the warm engine liberally with an alkaline-based cleaner. We like Chassis Clean. We do not like and do not recommend acid-based engine cleaners. Avoid getting engine cleaners on exterior paintwork. Let Chassis Clean soak on the engine for about 3 minutes, during this time, use the Parts Cleaning Brush to get into all the nooks and crannies.

5- Next rinse the engine thoroughly with a garden hose set for medium pressure.

6- Now go back and inspect for any remaining grease or grime spots that might require special attention. If you find any, spray the spot again with Frost Heavy Duty Citrus aerosol, scrub down with a Scuff Pad and rinse. The Frost Heavy Duty Citrus aerosol will remove stains, coatings or deposits of oil, grease and dirt. To remove remaining dirt and fuel stains from the carburettor use Frost Carb Clean Aerosol.

7- After the final rinse, blow the engine dry with a vacuum cleaner in reverse. If you do not have a dryer or compressed air, remove the rag or plastic bag covering the air intake and start the vehicle. Let it idle for 5 minutes.

More about maintening your engine:
Learn how to improve the longevity of your engine, click here...
3 essential tools to maintain and tune your classic engine, click here...
3 engine tools to Detect Engine Faults, click here...

Wednesday, 28 September 2011

Autumn Specials - Save up to 30% off !

Save up to 30% OFF with our Autumn Specials! Here are few examples:
Padded Garage Creeper: ONLY £25.65 (was £27.57)
Pry Bar Set: ONLY £12.66 (was £15.83)
Hideaway Security Box: ONLY £18.00 (was £25.52)
More great offers on the special offer & bargains section of the Frost website, click here...

Thursday, 22 September 2011

Lead versus Lead-Free Body Solder

Body solder has long been the choice of custom and restoration shops for filling seams, leveling uneven body work and blending in custom features. Even the best polyester body fillers available today cannot match the superior adhesion, strength and overall durability that body solder provides. Both our lead type and lead-free body solders can be applied with a commonly available propane torch.

Body solder melts at a relatively low temperature and is pushed or spread into position with a hard wood paddle to get the basic contour. Further shaping is usually done with a coarse file. Often a skim coat of polyester body filler is applied over the solder for final shaping.

See the differences between Lead-based and Lead-Free Body Solder, click here...
See the similarities between Lead and Lead-Free Body Solder, click here...

Both body solders are applied in basically the same manner. The Lead-free has the advantage of being stronger, safer, and suitable for powder coating.

Make you own choice! sell Lead Body solder Kit and Lead-Free Body Soldering kit!

The Differences between Lead and Lead-free Body Solders

Traditional lead-based body solders have been the choice of restorers and custom vehicle builders for over 80 years. Lead solders are commercially available with tin concentrations between 5% and 70% by weight. The greater the tin concentration, the greater the solder’s tensile and shear strengths. Frost body solder kits use bars consisting of 30% tin and 70% lead, which give the widest spreadable temperature range.

This mix produces a solder that is easily applied to vertical and horizontal surfaces with a long spreadable working range. Tensile strength is 6140 psi which refers to the amount of force required to pull a substance apart (In this case if we have a soldered joint that covers exactly one square inch, it would take 6140 lbs to pull it apart). Body solders containing lead must be levelled by filing -- never sand lead-based body solder because sanding puts toxic lead dust in the air. Furthermore, grit from the sand paper may embed in the solder and cause corrosion.

The lead-based Solder is easier to use
The low melting temperature makes the 30/70 lead-based solder slightly easier to use than our lead-free solder.

Lead-Free Body Solder is suitable for powder coating
With a better Tensile Strength (greater than 9000 psi), the lead-free solder is more appropriate for building up door and other panel edges, and style lines. Levelling can be done by filing and sanding since no lead particles will be dispersed (Be sure to wear an appropriate dust mask as for any metal grinding operation). This is one of the few solders that can actually be powder coated and cured at 200°C (with accurate temperature control) without deforming. The fact that the lead free can withstand powder coating temperatures is a big benefit.

Different Paddle Uses
In the case of the lead-based solder the paddle is used like a knife spreading butter.
In the case of the lead-free solder the paddle is used to push the solder into the surface. The "spreading" technique is not recommended in the case of the lead-free because impurities may become trapped

See the similarities between Lead and Lead-free Body Solders, click here...
Lead-based versus Lead-Free Body Solders , click here...

The similarities between Lead-based and Lead-free Body Solder

Both lead-based and lead-free body solders:
- are applied similarly (both can be easily applied to vertical and horizontal surfaces).
- need to be applied to clean bare steel.
- require tinning. Our tinning supplies serve the dual function of chemically cleaning the surface while depositing a thin coating of (mostly tin) metal, which provides an ideal bond to the subsequently applied solder. After wiping away the surplus tinning material, the surface is reheated and solder applied. Once sufficient solder to level the surface has been applied, the area is reheated and the paddle is used to level the repair.

See the differences between Lead and Lead-free Body Solders, click here...

Tuesday, 20 September 2011

Rediscover the virtues of Lead Loading

Plastic body fillers have come a long way in recent years, but there are still jobs that are best done with a good old-fashioned dose of lead.

For some time, it looked as though lead loading was a dying art. Concerns over health and safety combined with a great leap forwards in plastic filler technology seemed to banish lead from mainstream bodyshops and confine its use to a few classic workshops who were keen to recreate the original production methods on their projects. But recently it has been enjoying something of a revival in the wider trade as its virtues have been rediscovered.

The 3 main benefits of lead loading
  • suitability for deeper fills
  • greater durability
  • remains malleable
  • meaning, lead loading is ideal for finishing joints such as at the tops of rear quarter panels on today’s thin metalwork, the extra time spent in the application paying dividends in the long run with a repair that won’t sink, crack or absorb moisture.

    You'll need to practice
    As well as being laborious to apply, lead loading is a skill that takes practice to master. For one thing, you are applying lots of heat and this can cause more damage through distortion if you get it wrong.

    What tools do you need?
    You may have access to an oxy-acetylene torch, but this is very fierce and the heat is very localised. It can be done if you keep the torch moving and this can be a quick way of lead loading, but it takes a lot of practice to master. A plumber’s blowtorch is better, not least because it gives a wider flame and this is what most people will use. Alternatively, if you have access to a powerful hot air gun this will be slow, but it is a great way of learning the craft. And if you are new to the leading game, then there is a sound argument that it is better to spend two hours putting on the lead and filling it flat than to spend 15 minutes applying the lead followed by three hours coping with panel distortion.

    You can see the 12 steps for an invisible repair on the Frost website, click here... (Thanks to Simon Goldsworthy from the MG Enthusiast magazine for the article).

    Before doing anything, make sure your panel can be soldered. Click here, for more info ...

    If you want to give lead loading a try, you can find at a Basic Body Solder Kit for £38.40, and a more comprehensive kit: the Standard Body Solder Kit for £78.13. EXCLUSIVE OFFER: For 3 days only the Standard Body Solder Kit is at £70.00 ONLY. click here to buy your kit! Offer expires 24/09/2011.

    Monday, 19 September 2011

    Introduction to Body Soldering

    Traditional lead-based body solder has been the choice of restorers and customizers for over 80 years for filling seams, leveling uneven body work and blending in custom features. Even the best polyester body fillers available today cannot match the superior adhesion, strength and overall durability that body solder provides.

    Before doing anything, make sure your panel can be soldered. Click here, for more information ...

  • First clean the area to be filled, back to bare metal with a Stripping Disc, Abrasive Sandpaper etc.
  • Brush Solder Paste over an area slightly larger than that to be filled and heat the area gently until you see the solder paint “tin” the panel.
  • Remove excess solder paint with a clean cloth.
  • Next, melt blobs of body solder onto the panel over the area to be filled.
  • Prepare your Paddles by warming the surface of the Tallow and wiping your paddle in the molten puddle.
  • With a suitable amount of body solder now deposited on the panel, heat it carefully until it can be spread like butter with your paddle.
  • Control heat carefully and keep spreading until body solder is evenly spread over area.
  • Wash with cool water to quench and to remove traces of acid solder paint. Don’t grind or sand, use a Flexible File.
  • How to Determine If a Panel Can Be Soldered?

    STEP 1: remove all coatings from the surface to bare clean steel

    STEP 2: heat the area with a propane or MAPP gas torch

    If the panel sinks as heat is applied, it should not be soldered. The way the panel reacts to heat indicates the stresses that were imbued into the metal when it was manufactured. Exposure to heat can actually produce stress fractures in some steels, so be sure to only use a sufficient amount of heat to melt the solder.

    Avoid soldering perforated panels because the flux residue on the back of the metal will cause accelerated corrosion. This problem usually shows up as a swelling in the repair area a few months or years later as the forming rust underneath expands. For this same reason, seams that are only partially welded should not be soldered. Seams should be completely welded to prevent acidic flux residue from becoming trapped.

    Tuesday, 30 August 2011

    Very useful punch set for machinists, hobbyst, automotive and construction industry

    No excuses now for using expensive silver steel or old nails as drifts. Our new combo punch set covers the range and with its neat pocketed case and will allow you to pick the right punch for the job. Our set comes in a plastic pouch and includes:
  • 8 brass punches from 1/16th to 5/16th
  • 5 long steel parallel punches 1/8th to 3/8th
  • 1 centre punch

  • More information on punch sizes are available on the Frost Auto website... Our new Combo Punch Set costs £17.75 only, buy yours now at !

    Friday, 26 August 2011

    Produce Clean Welds with Minimal Grinding

    The Intergrips Welding Panel Clamps are a real boon to Car and vehicle restorers. They helps you produce clean welds with minimal grinding !

    They are ideal when welding patch repairs in floors, wings, door skins etc. or when assembling fabricated panels on reskinning projects.

    They will clamp flat, curved or even pressed ribbed panels.

    They will hold any shape panel in place anywhere - edge to edge and perfectly prior to butt welding, leaving only a small gap which will allow full penetration of the weld.

    Once the two sections are tack welded together, the wing nut is slackened, the toggle bar removed and the clamp lifted from the job prior to final welding. The end result is a first class welded butt joint with very little dressing being necessary.

    Friday, 22 July 2011

    The Eezibleed Brake Bleeder Kit is an Essential Brake Tool!

    The Gunson Eezibleed Kit is the Standard For Affordable Brake and Clutch Bleeding Systems! Eezibleed has an airtight seal on the reservoir ensures:

  • Fautless one man operation
  • Fast fluid replacement
  • No contamination
  • No damage to the system
  • Easy to follow instructions

  • How does it work?

    Eezibleed is a clever little bleeder that uses the pressure in your spare tyre to bleed air and old fluid from your hydraulic system. It eliminates the need for a helper as you no longer need to pump the pedal.

    Just connect the Eezibleed as instructed then open each bleed valve in turn until new fluid starts to flow through.
    Eezibleed is supplied with a variety of caps to fit different master cylinders. Gunson Eezibleed Multi-Purpose Cap may be required for non-screw type reservoirs.

    Different Applications

    Eezibleed can be used successfully on the following systems: Tandem master cylinders without sensors, Tandem reservoirs, Slave servos, Vacuum Servos.

    More info on the Frost Auto Website

    Friday, 15 July 2011

    Two tools in one with the Joggler Hole punch

    The Joggler Holepunch is a godsend for the amateur and professional body worker; It is the perfect tool when jointing two pieces of sheet steel together. Two tools in one an edge joggler and hole punch so you can produce a perfect flush welded lap joint with minimal effort.

    The joggler lays down a step 12mm wide along the panel edge in mild steel up to 1.2mm (18g). The long handles make it easy to use, and by simply twisting the head it makes an excellent hole punch making perfect 5mm holes every time, ready for plug welding. This robust tool brings professional quality work to your fingertips.

    Thursday, 7 July 2011

    Easy and inexpensive alternative to welding, soldering, and brazing

    J-B WELD is indispensable for any mechanics, farmers, homemakers and almost everyone! J-B WELD Adhesive is packaged in two tubes. One contains liquid steel / epoxy resin, and the other contains hardener. When mixed together in equal portions, a chemical reaction occurs that turns the mixture into a compound as hard and tough as steel and with similar properties.

    How use J-B WELD?
    Use JB Weld Adhesive as an adhesive, laminate, plug, filler, sealant, and electrical insulator.
    1/ Squeeze out equal portions from the black and red tubes
    2/ Mix thoroughly
    3/ Clean surface to be bonded
    4/ Apply J-B WELD and let it cure

    Like metal, J-B WELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. J-B WELD is super strong, non-toxic, and safe to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water.

    What does J-B WELD bond to?
    JB Weld bond to just about any porous and non-porous material, virtually any combination of iron, steel, copper, aluminium, brass, bronze, pewter, porcelain, ceramic, marble, glass, PVC & ABS, concrete, fibreglass, wood, fabric, paper.

    Monday, 27 June 2011

    Dinitrol Rust Prevention Waxes and Oils

    A large range of Dinitrol products are available to buy online at It might be difficult for you to know what Dinitrol solution you need; here is a bit of explanation...

    Dinitrol Corrosion prevention products
    Dinitrol Cavity Waxes are a thixotropic rust prevention fluid with good film building properties for open surfaces as well as for cavities. They are capable of good penetration into crevices and joints, preventing further corrosion even on damp or dirty surfaces. Cavity waxes leave a brown, waxy water repellent protective film.

    What are the KEY differences?
    DINITROL Corromax 3125 - old metal, penetrates through rust, contains inhibitors
    DINITROL 3654 - retreating existing applications
    DINITROL ML - thin, high penetrating - low abrasion qualities

    Dinitrol Underbody Waxes are a thixotropic external underbody anti-rust fluid, which provides long term resistance against corrosion and abrasion, even under severe conditions. It provides a tough elastic waxy protective coating. The wax film is resistant to repair and oven paint temperatures.

    What are the KEY differences?
    DINITROL 4941 - black, tough, elastic and waxy film
    DINITROL METALLIC - brown, tough, elastic and waxy film - does not harm rubber or plastics

    DINITROL CLEAR WAXES (Solvent Based)
    This is a long term engine protection product with heat resistance up to 200 centigrade. The product leaves a firm transparent film with short drying time and good adhesion and flexibility on all metal surfaces, rubber and plastic parts. It is resistant to alkali and acidic solutions. Ideal for using under the bonnet on hose clips and unpainted aluminium, which can corrode leaving a white powder.

    DINITROL CORROHEAT 4010 - dries to a hard clear finish

    Dinitrol Stone Chip Black Protection is a permanently elastic anti-stone chip product which also protects against corrosion. It has a sound deadening effect and can be over-painted. It does not contain aggressive solvents such as chlorinated hydrocarbons and will not attack PVC coatings. Ideal for wheel arches.

    Wednesday, 22 June 2011

    For Extreme Durability, choose Powder Coating

    Powder coating allows you to coat and cure metal parts in less than an hour, and provides an extremely durable finish that is dent and chip resistant.
    It’s far superior to liquid coatings, it’s easy to apply with no drips or overspray, and contains no environmentally harmful solvents.

    3 Steps:
    1. Strip and Clean your metal part before coating
    2. Coat the entire part – you can’t overcoat
    3. Cure your part in an electrical over for about 20 minutes

    Have a look to the Hotcoat Powder Coating Gun available at

    Thursday, 9 June 2011

    Ethanol and Petrol Engine

    Ethanol and Petrol, Frost has a Solution for you! If you use petrol for your family car, classic car, boat, motorcycle, quad, lawnmower, strimmer, rotavator, chainsaw, generator, pump or any other type of equipment that has a petrol engine, you need to know about Ethanol in your fuel.

    What is Ethanol?

    Ethanol, also called ethyl alcohol, pure alcohol, grain alcohol, or drinking alcohol, is a volatile, flammable, colourless liquid. Best known as the type of alcohol found in alcoholic beverages, it is also used in thermometers, as a solvent and as an alcohol fuel. In common usage, it is often referred to simply as alcohol or spirits.

    Where does it come from?

    Ethanol is sustainable and domestically produced from renewable resources such as corn, grains and potatoes.

    Why add Ethanol to Petrol?

    Ethanol is good for our agricultural economy and helps us reduce our dependency on foreign petroleum products. On the “green” side they are aimed at improving air quality and reducing air pollution from fuel emissions.

    What proportion of the fuel is Ethanol?

    Permitted ethanol content in petrol is 5% which is to rise to 10% in 2013. However we are led to believe supermarket fuels may already have as much as 10% ethanol blended in. We hear a 15% mix is on its way in the USA. While this is good for the domestic farmer and our environment, Ethanol can cause serious problems to your engine and fuel system. Generally vehicles built after 1996 have been designed with Biofuels in mind, but earlier cars and engines with carburettors are going to need help.

    What types of problems have been encountered?

    1) Water accumulation in the fuel tank - Ethanol absorbs water from the air. The water condenses in the fuel tank and will pull the ethanol out of suspension with the petrol. This is bad news because it strips the octane out of the petrol, leaving you with a layer of octane-poor fuel on top and a water-ethanol layer mixture on the bottom. If this gets sucked into the combustion chamber, you will have poor starting and very rough running with potentially engine damage.

    2) Deposit is like to build up - Ethanol when mixed with water readily forms Gums in the fuel system much quicker than fuel without Ethanol. These Gums coat fuel system components including filters, carburettors, injectors, throttle plates and will then form varnish and carbon deposits in the intake, on valves, and in the combustion chamber.

    3) Lower fuel mileage, decreased performance and acceleration. Ethanol contains less chemical energy than petrol does, and this means less mileage for the driver. 3-5% drops in mileage are expected.

    4) Corrosion of internal engine components - Water contamination may cause fuel system corrosion and severe deterioration.

    5) Contaminants in fuel system – water, degraded rubber, plastic, fibreglass and rust may get drawn in.

    6) It could encourage microbial growth in fuel. Ethanol being organic and hygroscopic may allow the growth of fungus.

    7) Short shelf life - as short as 90 days

    8) Corrodes plastic and rubber - Ethanol is a strong, aggressive solvent and will cause problems with rubber hoses, o-rings, seals, and gaskets. These problems are worse during extended storage when significant deterioration could take place. Hoses may delaminate, o-rings soften and break down, and fuel system components made from certain types of plastics could either soften or become hard and brittle, eventually failing. Fuel system components made from brass, copper, and aluminium may oxidize. The dissolved plastics and resins now in the fuel could end up in blocked fuel filters or gummy deposits.

    9) Melts Fibreglass - bikes and boats with fibreglass fuel tanks can have structural failure as the Ethanol will break down and pick-up some of the materials the tanks are made from. Again this material, dissolved from the tank, can be carried through the fuel system and can cause damage to carburettors, fuel injectors and can actually get into the combustion chambers.

    Frost has a solution for you: the Frost Ethomix Additive (product Code Z555) protect against harmful impact of ethanol blended petrol.
    BUY Frost Ethomix

    Thursday, 2 June 2011

    The New Frost Auto Website is online!

    You now get a clearer, faster and easier shopping experience with the new frost Auto website!

    New Design
    2 colours: red and blue Clear and light pages

    New Functionalities
    Compare, Rate and Review products
    See recently viewed products

    New Customer Account
    Fast and easy check out
    Easy access to your order history
    Email Price alert on the product page
    Create your Wishlist

    Surf on the new Frost Auto website NOW, click here ...

    Friday, 15 April 2011

    New Fuel Additive to prevent Ethanol Damages!

    The Frost team are very happy to introduce a brand new product to you which is exclusive to us; it will solve many problems you may have with Ethanol.

    "Petrol containing ethanol is potentially harmful to the fuel systems of the majority of vehicles operated by FBHVC members. The dangers of corrosion and degradation of materials used in the fuel systems of historic vehicles have been highlighted by the CONCAWE organisation. There are no benefits to FBHVC members from the inclusion of ethanol in petrol, and in general, the higher the ethanol content the greater the concerns" (see FBHVC website).

    In response to a FBHVC call, Frost is proud to introduce a new additive to protect against the harmful impact of Ethanol blended petrol. Frost Ethomix additive will combat the significant damage Ethanol blended fuel can cause to cars, motorcycles and non-road equipment that do not have compatible fuel systems. Ethomix is formulated to prevent corrosion in fuel systems and internal engine components, gum and resin build-up, clogged carburettors, injectors, filters and fuel lines, plus aggravation of water and moisture problems in fuel storage or unused engine situations. More information about the Frost Ethomix Additive, click here... More information about Ethanol Damages, click here...

    Thursday, 6 January 2011

    Motorcycle Restoration

    Are you considering undertaking a motorcycle restoration or maybe you have already started your 'project'. Whatever your motivation you are probably about to become involved in a labour of love.
    Once you have become enamored to restoring motorbikes, it is a passion which stays with you for life - even when the practicalities of day-to-day life mean you have to swap two roaring wheels for four more sedate ones.
    A wedding ring and the patter of tiny feet would, once, have meant packing the bike leathers away for good. But over the last 20 years, the number of ‘mature motorcyclists’ has rocketed - and the popularity of motorcycle restoration is greater than ever.
    When embarking on bike restoration, it is important to consider the following: Pick a motorbike you know you will be able to restore - taking a look around our website will give you a feel for the sort of products around to help you.
    Like any restoration project, make your goals achievable: decide how much work you are prepared to do, how often you intend to use the bike and what you really want out of the bike.
    There are many motorcycle fan clubs out there, and a quick look through local ‘what’s on’ columns during the summer inevitably throws up bike events when dozens, if not hundreds, of pristine two-wheelers will be on show. It is also recommended to join online communities and forums and Facebook groups to extend your network of support.
    Once you have chosen the motorcycle to restore - and that really can be the fun part with so many different places to look - a hints and tips book or car manual is an invaluable companion for when you reach frustrating moments during your labours.
    There will be times when you may feel stumped by a problem you had not expected - and that’s where we at Frost can help. We pride ourselves on being able to give advice and scouring the UK looking for the right restoration tools and accessories to help make your labour of love that little bit easier. Be it the Yamaha 500 V4 from more recent times, or an Ariel Huntmaster from the decades which went before, here at Frost we can help you.
    We also stock the equipment and products you need to make sure that once complete, your bike remains in the condition you have lovingly restored it to.
    We know what it means to feel the thrill of the open road on a restored motorcycle - and that thrill only gets better when you know it’s thanks to you that the bike you’re riding is only back on the roads because of you and your efforts.

    Tuesday, 4 January 2011

    NO VAT Increase for 3 more days at

    Subscribe to the Frost newsletter TODAY and receive a promo code to buy your restoration tools and machines at the old VAT Rate (17.5%). This exclusive offer is valid: - for the Frost newsletter subscribers - for the whole Website - with the promo code Be quick! Offer ends on Friday 7th january 2011. Join the Frost newsletter now, click here...